Archive for Damon Talks Wine

18 Apr 2013

Family Vineyards Pinot Noir 2011, Newton Johnson, Hermanus, South Africa

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​The main reason to visit Hermanus on the last ‘busman’s holiday’ was to source seafood appropriate reds, well, namely Pinot Noirs as this is what the Hemel-En-Aarde Valley is renowned for.  Throughout the week’s visit it is safe to say almost every Pinot Noir skilfully made in the Hemel-En-Aarde Valley was sampled however there can only be one winner….and the winner is…Newton Johnson!

Positioned approximately half way up the valley, with the Atlantic Ocean in view, the family vineyards of Newton Johnson are north facing which ensures great exposure to the sun. The influence of the Atlantic Ocean plays an important role for the region’s viticulture. The Hemel-En-Aarde Valley is created by two mountain ranges which run parallel to each other and perpendicular to the ocean thus creating a channel for the crisp on-shore Atlantic breeze making the region perfectly suited for cool climate grape varieties like Pinot Noir. Read more

28 Feb 2013

A Taste of Japan in Cornwall

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We were recently honoured by a visit from Takahiko Nozawa, Winemaker of the Yamanashi Wine Company.  Coming all the way from Japan, Nozawa-San kindly brought tank samples of wine which have not officially been bottled yet, so perhaps we were the first in the UK to taste the 2012 Sol Lucet Koshu as well as another Koshu wine known as Four Seasons, of which 30% was fermented in French oak.  The light oak was specifically selected to not influence a vanilla characteristic as most types of oak do.  I am speaking on behalf of the entire Nathan Outlaw Team when I say that it was a great opportunity to meet Nozawa-San who came from his vineyard at the base of Mount Fuji to offer his knowledge freely and teach us about his wine.

Nozawa-San was really keen to sample, quote “the best of British Seafood”. Coincidently the majority of the guests, including Nozawa-San, who have dined with us opted to Read more

21 Dec 2012

Busman’s Holiday 2012

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As the end of 2012 approaches, another busman’s holiday is on the agenda.  Western Cape here we come!  Hermanus will be the starting point for tasting as many wines produced in Walker Bay as possible.  The Hemel-En-Aarde Valley is another perfect example of an area producing exceptional wines.  Once we have found and sorted through the best of the best and before heading towards Stellenbosch, a few days in the Karoo desert for fresh air will definitely create a thirst for more exceptional wine.

When working with boutique producers, I personally feel the importance of meeting the winemakers really comes across in the restaurant.  I find that our guests are equally, if not more, interested in the background of the families producing our wines than the technical information about Read more

01 Dec 2012

Knightor – A Cornish Winery

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Knightor Winery is hiding around the corner from the popular Eden Project.  It is a relatively young winery, however, once the wines are tasted you would think the winemaking skills have been passed down from generation to generation.  Adrian Derx, the proprietor, leaves the winemaking in the very capable hands of James Thomas.  I personally thought James is young in relation to his travels and achievements.  He comes across as being laid back but it’s obvious that he is a hard working and enthusiastic winemaker.  The winery is meticulously clean and kept in order.

James makes two wines we source for Nathan Outlaw Restaurants. Firstly, a delicate wine made from Madeleine Angevine which pairs well with a lighter sashimi style of dish or cured bream for example, because it shows subtle floral notes and hints of gooseberry.  However, their Trevannion is completely different in style and has an incredible depth of flavour, enough to stand up to curry! The blend is equal quantities of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Siegerrebe.  Siegerrebe’s literal meaning is “victory vine”.  The grape was created by Georg Scheu, a German viticulturalist, in 1929 by crossing Gewurztraminer and Madeleine Angevine which received varietal protection in 1958.

This exceptional wine compliments John Dory, Cabbage and Curry.  The beauty of it is that this wine has a resemblance to an Alsace style of wine, but due to being produced in Cornwall the outcome is dry and delicate.  When poured into glass first impressions are that it looks like water, but the wine actually has great texture, balance and intensity.   The acidity has a refreshing cutting effect through the creamy textured sauce which is made from a combination of curry, apple and roasted fish stock.

13 Oct 2012

FMC 2010, Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch, South Africa

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To Compliment: Seabass, Potato and Leeks

 

The FMC 2010 is an exceptional expression of Chenin Blanc which is made from grapes that were handpicked, by proud local harvesters wearing golf shirts with a slogan “I Picked FMC” embroided on the back, from vines planted in 1967.  Fermentation has taken place in new 400 litre French oak barrels using natural yeast which is where the wine has been allowed 12 months contact with lees. Stirring of the lees (Bâtonage) is usually weekly for greater extraction.

This is a wine that once tasted will never be forgotten!  I have matched the FMC to perfectly cooked sea bass with crispy skin, potato terrine bound together with shavings of three year old Davidstow Crackler and soft leeks which is dressed with tartare dressing, made from capers, gherkins, cold smoked butter, extra virgin Cornish rapeseed oil and a highly reduced red wine reduction.

The wine seems full bodied on entry, but has a silky texture which glides elegantly across the mouth. The complex palate perfectly mirrors the aroma. Initially, lightly toasted bread with a thin layer of marmalade develops into oaky vanilla, butterscotch, honey and dried apricots with an underlying savouriness balanced by gentle acidity is the first impression which lasts…lasts…and lasts.

In 2000, The FMC was born, a venture between Ken Forrester (F) and Martin Meinert (M) to produce a wine from 100% Chenin (C), using wood.  Their attempts in ’97,’98 and ’99 deemed unsuccessful making batches of wine from the best parcel of vines until 2000 when they got it right! The first official release of FMC was 2001.

Ken Forrester produces a three tier wine range. The fruit focused wines produced for everyday drinking is called Petit; these wines are made entirely from fruit derived from negociants.  The next level is the Forrester range where the family is solely responsible for the cultivation and selection of fruit grown on the estate.  The aptly named Icon Range is the best expression of this particular style of wine produced in the Cape.

During harvest, up to six successive pickings takes place when the grapes reach full maturity.  A little botrytis is often present on the individual bunches which are selected, ensuring only limited quantities.  The reason Ken is rightly considered the King of Chenin Blanc!

27 Jul 2012

Featured Wine

2 Comments Blog, Damon Talks Wine

Damon Little is Beverage Manager for Nathan Outlaw Restaurants and Sommelier for Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, showcasing his wines through his blog. With a true passion for wine and food pairing and viticulture, he has a particular interest in exceptional wine from unusual grapes, small-yields or practices which set particular vineyards apart in producing character and most importantly, quality.

 

Late Harvest Gewürztraminer 2007, Sha’al Vineyard, Carmel Winery, Galilee, Israel

 

Basil Blancmange with White Peach Sorbet is a dessert offering flavours that could cause an emotional effect on the palate, perhaps confusion initially, but the brain swiftly connects the dots realizing that the unusual combination of Basil and White Peach creates nothing but bliss for the taste buds.

The exciting challenge of matching a wine to this remarkable dessert is pushed to the limits when a Hazelnut and Basil Pesto and Hazelnut Crisp are added to the above mention dessert.

For the perfect compliment, I have matched the 2007 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer made by the Carmel Winery.  The first and most historic winery in Israel, founded in… Read more

23 Jun 2012

Featured Wine

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Cabernet Franc Icewine 2007, Peller Estates, Niagara, Canada

 

Nathan and his small team have done it, yet again.  They have created a dessert which defies all pre-conception of what a classic Bread & Butter Pudding should be.  Meticulous timing and organisation skills are essential to provide our guests the freshest, most delicious food in the country!

Firstly a raspberry brioche is made daily, portioned and dehydrated before soaking it in raspberry custard.  This process ensures the perfect texture.  Each rectangle of divine brioche is then caramelised to provide that extra crunch and flavour.  This is accompanied with fresh raspberries drizzled with delicate syrup, which is balanced by the acidity of homemade raspberry yoghurt.

To accompany this delightful dessert I have paired… Read more

05 Jun 2012

Featured Wine

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Bassus Pinot Noir 2008, Bodegas Hispanos-Suizas, Uteil-Requena, Spain

 

…………………….Yes, a Pinot Noir from Spain, a contradiction in terms perhaps, but this wine is exceptional!  Utiel-Requena is in Valencia.  It is a DO (Denominación de Origen) which was created in 1957 and is literally between the towns of Utiel and Requena.  Grape growing and wine production in the area dates back to 7th Century BC.

The area has a continental climate which sounds great for a holiday, but due to the frequent hailstones and frost, it is considered one of the most severe grape growing climates in Spain. The temperature can rise to 40⁰C and drop to -10⁰C.  The unbearable heat is moderated by a cool wind known as the Solano which blows in from the sea, 70kms away (as the crow flies).  The anticipation leading up to harvest must be “nail-biting”.

The winery was built in 1905 and restored recently in 2009…  Read more

08 May 2012

Featured Wine

No Comments Blog, Damon Talks Wine

Damon Little is Beverage Manager for Nathan Outlaw Restaurants and Sommelier for Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, showcasing his wines through his blog. With a true passion for wine and food pairing and viticulture, he has a particular interest in exceptional wine from unusual grapes, small-yields or practices which sets particular vineyards apart in producing character and most importantly, quality. Click here to read Damon’s full bio.

Albariño 2010, Bodegas Bouza, Montevideo, Uruguay

Albariño is one of my personal favourite versatile seafood accompanying varietals.  This delightful grape is always associated with Galicia which is located in the extreme North-West corner of Spain.  To be honest, it should be because it is indigenous to Galicia.

However, in my spare time I enjoy researching  variations of great wine produced “off the beaten track” in order to provide our guests an eclectic mix of wines which they can take advantage of by choosing to indulge in our accompanying wine flight, or should I say journey?  I discovered a family who are “indigenous“ to Galicia but are growing Albariño in Montevideo, the Capital of Uruguay. This makes them unique because they are currently the only winery to grow and produce Albariño in Uruguay, which in my opinion is exceptional wine! Read more

17 Apr 2012

Silberbichl Riesling 2009, Stift Göttweig, Kremstal DAC, Austria

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Towering above the Danube River, and 26ha of mature vines, is the incredibly majestic Stift Göttweig Monastery which has been residence to the Benedictine Monks since AD 1083.

To understand silberbichl, the name needs breaking up…Silber meaning silver and bichl meaning hill referring to the “Riesling-perfect” soil which the 30 year old vines are planted on.  It is a broad terraced vineyard situated above the picturesque Danube River comprising “old Danube” Gravel and glistening Mica Schist.  This wine has inherited a distinct mineral edge from this soil which creates the perfect balance for the fruit driven Riesling.

Pear, ripe peaches and apricot with a hint of marzipan flavours balanced by good minerality and acidity compliment Nathans latest dish of Monkfish wrapped in Bacon, served with a spear of St. Enodoc Asparagus  and dressed with Wild Garlic and Pumpkin Seed Pesto. The first sip of this Riesling is not dissimilar to the initial crisp crunch of asparagus; however the medium bodied texture follows shortly after, which stands up to the density of monkfish, allowing the acidity to cut through the quenelle of asparagus “mousse” made with copious amounts of asparagus cooked with roasted cod stock and a dash of cream.